Sunday, March 5, 2017

30 Things to Do in Istanbul

When I found out that I was studying abroad in Greece, I knew that I wanted to visit Istanbul, the center of the Byzantine Empire. Last Monday, the Greeks celebrated Clean Monday, a national holiday marking the end of Carnival and the beginning of Lent. I took this four day weekend to travel to Istanbul and experience firsthand the city where East and West meet.


1. Visit the Hagia Sophia
Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia is the first thing any visitor to Istanbul should see, as it is the perfect example of the fusion present in Istanbul - East and West, Christian and Muslim. The Hagia Sophia was rebuilt on the site of an earlier version that burned down during the Nika Riots. Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora undertook an elaborate building project (go see the Little Hagia Sophia, which was built to test the architectural design) that culminated with the Hagia Sophia, or Church of Holy Wisdom. The inside of the building shows the fusion of the original church and the mosque modifications. The apse is decorated both with a mosaic of the Virgin and Christ, as well as with beautiful stain glass from the Ottoman period. Around the church are the giant calligraphic initials of Ottoman Emperors, and the dome is painted in praise to Allah. While in the Hagia Sophia, definitely observe the building from the Empress' seats, see the Viking runic graffiti in the upper gallery, view the mosaics of Byzantine Emperors and Empresses, and make a wish at the wishing column!

2. See the Tombs of the Sultans
Inside one of the Tombs of the Sultans
The tombs of five Ottoman Sultans and their royal families are located within the Hagia Sophia complex, but are accessed from the outside, and do not charge an entrance fee. While visiting the tombs it is important to remove your shoes and leave them outside of the mausoleums and women should cover their hair in respect for the dead. These mausoleums are octagonal in shape and are domed structures that contain the green shrouded tombs of the Sultan and his extended family. The inside of the mausoleums are just as elaborate as the outside, and are decorated with ceramic tiles and painted calligraphy. The actual bodies lay underneath the floor of the tombs, which are symbolic in nature. The tombs decorated by the white turbans mark the bodies of the Sultan and his sons. 

3. Walk through the Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque

Across from the Hagia Sophia is the Blue Mosque, which was built during the reign of Sultan Ahmet I. The Blue Mosque is named for its blue domes and is still used as a mosque today. Outside of the Blue Mosque are fountains for supplicants to purify themselves before prayer. Tourists are able to enter the courtyard and can enter the mosque through the far entrance. Proper dress code must be observed. Women are asked to cover their hair, while both men and women are expected to wear long pants or skirts. Before you enter the mosque, you must take off your shoes, which can then be placed inside of a plastic bag and carried or stowed on one of the shelves. The Blue Mosque is beautifully decorated with stained-glass, calligraphy, and tiles, and is open to visitors except during times of prayer. While you are at the Mosque, take a free translated copy of the Qur'an and learn about the Islamic religion from its source!

4. Walk along the Hippodrome
Serpentine Column in the Hippodrome

To be honest, I was expecting the remains of the Hippodrome structure to be visible (for that, check out the Hippodrome exhibit in the Museum of Islamic and Ottoman Art). Instead, I got to see a beautiful public square. Located near the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, the Hippodrome is recognizable by its three columns. The first is the Theodosian Obelisk, imported from Egypt during the reign of Constantine and placed in the Hippodrome during the reign of Theodosius I. The base of this obelisk contains a relief of Emperor Theodosius watching a chariot race in the Hippodrome. The second column is the Serpentine Column that was erected at Delphi in the 5th century B.C. and moved to Constantinople in the 4th century C.E. The head of one of the serpents can be found in the nearby Museum of Archeology. The third column is the Walled Obelisk, or the Column of Constantine VII, who reconstructed the column during his reign. These columns had been used in order to mark the center of the race course. If you are feeling up to it, take a jog around the Hippodrome while you are there.

5. Eat a Doner

doner is the Turkish version of the Greek gyro, and is made with shredded meat cooked on a vertical rotiserie. First, choose from lamb, chicken, or beef, and then watch as they prepare the pita with vegetables, fries, along with other toppings. If you aren't looking for a sit down meal, this is a cheap on-the-go lunch that you can eat while you walk. 

6. Go on an excursion
Walls of Troy VI and Troy VII

If you are visiting Istanbul for more than a couple of days, I suggest taking a day-trip excursion out of the city to see some of the other famous sites of Turkey. I chose to visit the archeological site of Troy, or Truva. This excursion included transport to and from my hostel to the archeological site of Troy (about a five hour journey each way), lunch, and the cost of admission, all for a very reasonable price. While there isn't much left at Troy besides stone structures, it was absolutely amazing to see the site that inspired Western literature, and so much of Greek cultural identity. I was able to see the tomb of Achilles and Patrocles, as well as 5,000 year old fortification structures (which is the oldest architectural structure that I have ever seen.) Due to the lack of recognizable remains I wouldn't suggest the site of Troy for the causal tourist. Instead, I would suggest a day trip to Ephesus or Pergamon for those interested in classical archeological sites, or an excursion to Gallipoli for those interested in modern military history.

7. Visit the Topkai Palace
Wall of Topkapi Palace
The Topkapi Palace structure is located behind the Hagia Sophia, overlooking the Bosphorus, and was the palace complex used by the Ottoman Empire from the 15th century to the 19th century. Having been converted into a museum of the Ottoman royal family, visitors are able to walk through the kitchen area, the library of the Sultans, the circumcision room, as well as the armory. This is the perfect location to see the magnificent tiles and the stained glass produced by the Ottoman Empire. Make sure you dedicate at least a half day to the Palace so that you can view the extensive collection of holy artifacts belong to the Abrahamic Prophets, the collection of clocks, and the portrait gallery. The Topkapi Palace is a must-see on any trip to Istanbul as it serves to transport visitors back to the height of the Ottoman empire. 

8. See the Harem
Receiving Room of the Valide Sultan
The Harem is an extra entrance fee within Topkapi palace, but I think it is definitely worth seeing. The Harem is the collection of rooms and courtyards used by the women of the Ottoman royal family, including wives, daughters, sisters, and mothers. The Harem is also the place in which the education of the crown princes occurred. While touring the harem, you will see multiple sitting rooms for entertainment, as well as private residences. These elaborate rooms show the wealth of the Ottoman Empire, as well as the importance of these women in court. Don't be fooled by the common misconceptions about harems, from the 18th century forwards these imperial women had a significant role in the court - influencing policy and managing the palace. 

9. Enter the Hagia Eirene
Hagia Eirene
The Hagia Eirene often gets by-passed for it more famous neighbor, the Hagia Sophia, but if you have a museum pass for Istanbul, you should take ten minutes and see the Hagia Eirene. The Hagia Eirene, or the Church of Holy Peace, is located within the Topkapi Palace complex. While the inside of the church is nowhere as grand as the Hagia Sophia. the Hagia Eirene is one of the best examples of iconoclasm within the city. Located in the apse of the church is a giant mosaic of a cross, which is believed to have replaced a depiction of Christ during the time of iconoclasm. The Hagia Eirene is unique, as it was never converted into a mosque upon the Ottoman capture of Constantinople. As a result, the Hagia Eirene gives visitors an important look into Byzantine churches.

10. Go to the Museum of Islamic and Ottoman Art

Located right near the Hippodrome, the Museum of Islamic and Ottoman Art is a great way to spend a rainy morning or learn about the evolution of art from the early Arab Muslim dynasties to the emergence of the Ottoman empire. This museum is a little sparse, but contains amazing examples of early Qur'ans, pottery, carpets and kilms, as well as displays of hair from the beard of the Prophet Muhammad. This museum is one of my favorite in regards to its organization, as the museum directs you through the exhibits chronologically. Make sure you finish your visit with a great picture of the Blue Mosque taken from the courtyard of the museum.

11. Walk through the Archeology Museum

After the Topkapi palace, check out the Archeology Museum, a three building museum displaying the best archeological finds of Turkey and the neighboring regions. Make sure you check out the decorations of the Ishtar gate, and the display of the first diplomatic treaty, which occurred between New Kingdom Egypt and the Hittite Kingdom. Also see the famous head of Sapphos and the Alexander Sarcophagus. This museum displays a lot of artifacts that you will not see on display in America or Western Europe, and is a must visit while in Istanbul. This is also a great place to interact with the local "stray" cat population.

12. Descend into the Basilica Cistern
Weeping Column

The Basilica Cistern was surprisingly my favorite part of my trip and perhaps is one of the best hidden gems Istanbul has. The Basilica Cistern was built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian during the 6th century C.E. The cistern is 140 meter by 70 meters, and contains over 300 columns that had been reused from other monuments. As a result, the Basilica is a museum of different styles of antique columns, which support the weight of the ceiling through arches. The Basilica Cistern can hold over 100,000 tons of water, the largest cistern in Istanbul. Today, water still drips from the ceiling creating echos of splashing water, while Turkish music hums softly in the background. While walking through the cistern, you begin to hear noises all around you created from the echos. The cistern is the home to fish, who swim through the water collected in the cistern. Among the different types of columns, three particularly stand out. Two columns are supported by giant sculptural heads of Medusa, while the third "weeping" column has tear-drop shaped embellishments that "weep" with streaming water. The cistern is nothing at all like I expected and truly is able to transports visitors back in time with its seemingly endless rows of columns.

Medusa Column


13. Take a stroll through Gulhane Park

Formerly part of the Topkapi palace complex, Gulhane Park is oldest and largest public park in Istanbul. A beautiful way to see the outside of the Topkapi Palace and the coastline of Istanbul is by walking through this beautiful park. With its bright green grass, multiple walking paths, and interactive art, people of all ages will enjoy the park. The park is surrounded by the walls of Constantinople and small cafes. The park also features the Museum of the Science and Technology in Islam. The park is a great place to enjoy a picnic lunch or to get away from the bustle of Istanbul. Don't miss the Goth's Column dating back to the early days of Byzantium. which celebrates victory over the Gothic people.

14. Drink ayran
Ayran

Ayran is the national drink of Turkey. Visitors of Turkey, however, either love the drink or hate it. Ayran  is made of thinned yogurt and salt, and is often drunk with lunch or dinner. If you don't like plain yogurt, you probably will not be a fan. I don't think that ayran will ever be a drink that I enjoy, but I am glad that I was able to try the beverage while in Istanbul.

15. Cross the Galata Bridge

The Galata Bridge separates the two parts of Istanbul that are divided by the Golden Horn. This is the first of two bridges, and can be crossed by car or the metro, but is best to do on foot. The Galata Bridge serves as the perfect location for a picture of the Bosphorus or the skyline of Istanbul. While crossing the bridge be sure to check out the fishermen who are fishing off the bridge. You might even see a catch! From the Galata Bridge, you can make your way to the Galata Tower or over to the Asian side of Istanbul.

16. Climb the Galata Tower
Galata Tower
The Galata Tower was built in the 14th century C.E. by the Genosese occupation of Constantinople. During the Ottoman Period, the tower, the tallest in Istanbul, was used to spot fires in the city. Today, the tower sits on top of a steep hill and is surrounded by cafes and intellectual conversations. After braving the long line and paying an entrance fee (25 Turkish Lyra or 9 USD) you are taken by elevator up to the observation deck of the nine story tower. Walk around the observation deck and snap pictures of the skyline. If you get to the tower to watch the sunset, you can stay and eat dinner in the seventh floor restaurant!

17. Cross over the Bosphorus into Asia

There is so much to do on the European side of Istanbul that most tourist never even visit the Asian side. If you have the time, definitely take a ferry to the Asian side of Istanbul, especially if you have never been to Asia before. With less tourists, the Asian part of Istanbul has a more local feel. While you are there, make the trip up Camilca Hill, the highest hill of Istanbul.

18. Sample Turkish Delight

I now understand why Edmund would be willing to betray his family for Turkish Delight in The Lion, The Witch, and the Wardrobe. Turkish Delight, or lokum in Turkish, is a gummy sweet that originates from Turkey. Walk down any street in Istanbul and you will find multiple shops selling the dessert. Sample the different flavors first - mint, rosewater, lemon, or orange - before you buy. Skip the prepackaged sugared lokum because the sugar coating drys out the candy. My favorite was the pomegranate lokum with pistachios and dried cranberries. Most stores can also seal your package of Turkish delight, so they make the perfect gift! 

19. Start your day with a trip to the Hamam
Outside Entrance of the Cemberlitas Hamami

Turkish baths are world renown and a visit to a bath is the perfect way to start your day. I chose the Cemberlitas Hamami, which was built by the Architect Sinan in 1587, because he was the architect for Suleiman the Magnificent, my favorite Ottoman Sultan. Upon entering the bath, you choose the service that you would like to receive (I chose the traditional service) and are separated by gender. After changing into the provided undergarments, you are brought to the hot room, where you lay on a convex stone platform. The humid air opens your pores and makes you sweat. After laying on the stone, an attendant enters and proceeds to scrap off your dead skin, wash your body with soap, and give you a fifteen minute massage. Afterwards you are splashed with water and your hair is washed by the attendant. After being thoroughly rinsed with bowls of warm water, the attendant retires from the room and you return to the stone dome where you are able to rest for however long you want until you wish to leave. The hamam was one of my favorite experiences in Istanbul as it is such a fundamental aspect of Ottoman and Turkish culture. Going early in the morning is a great way to start your day and gives you more privacy during your bathing experience. 

20. Barter in the Grand Bazaar
Gate of the Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is a must see for any visitor to Istanbul. The Grand Bazaar was built in the late 15th century C.E. and is often considered the oldest shopping mall in the world. With over 61 streets, this covered market contains more than 3,000 shops. Here you will find shops upon shops of leather goods, ceramics, glass, carpets, lamps, sliver ware, along with almost anything else that you could imagine. It is really easy to get lost within the bazaar, and I found all of the people and vendors to be an overwhelming experience, but it is definitely worth walking through. This is a great place to find Turkish carpet or a Turkish lamp, and if you do plan on buying anything within the Grand Bazaar make sure that you barter. Start by offering half of the original price, and slowly raise your offering price. You are not insulting the vendors, who purposefully raise their prices. If you don't feel comfortable with the price, feel free to leave and try another store.

21. Peruse the Old Book Bazaar
Entrance to the Old Book Bazaar
The Old Book Bazaar, located between the Grand Bazaar and Sultan Beyazit Mosque, is another hidden treasure of Istanbul. This street has been a book market since Byzantine times, and carries on that legacy today. After walking through the Grand Bazaar, stroll through this street and look at the secondhand books that the vendors have on display. The Bazaar has something for everyone - from Classics, to English fictions, to historical novels, and biographies - this is a book-lovers dream. My favorite vendor took old and damaged Ottoman manuscripts and painted Ottoman styled art on the pages. This vendor was so passionate and loved showing me all of his wares as well as explaining his artistic process. Here I was able to decompress after the chaos of the Grand Bazaar and hold a page from a 15th century Ottoman manuscript!

22. Try dondurma

Caramel Dondurma in front of the Hagia Sophia

Dondurma means "freezing" in Turkish and is the ice cream of Turkey. Dondurma is made with a flour derived from the root of the early purple orchid and with mastic, a natural resin. These extra ingredients lend to the unique texture of the ice cream, which is gritty, stringy, and chewy. Dondurma is made in a variety of different flavours - I had caramel - and is often sold by street vendors. Looking to try some dondurma? Look out of the long metal paddle and the traditional dress of the dondurma vendors.


23. Visit the Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent
Inside of the Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent
This architectural masterpiece was created by Mimar Sinan (his pupils built the Taj Mahal), on behalf of the Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent between 1550 and 1557. This mosque combines Ottoman and Byzantine designs in order to create this spectacular building of prayer. Like most mosques in Istanbul, there is no entrance fee and inside are free informational brochures about Islam and often misunderstood parts of Islamic culture. While visiting this mosque, make sure you remove you shoes and that you are wearing the appropriate clothes. Pictures without flash are allowed and talking must be kept at a whisper. After looking at the mosque, walk around the complex and see the tombs of Sinan, the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman, and the Sultana Roxelana. If possible, don't visit on a Monday, as the tombs are closed (which was the mistake that I made.)

24. Walk through the Spice Market
Spice Market Vendor
The Spice Market is another covered bazaar that contains shops selling nuts, fruits, teas, spices, and sweets. Located next to the New Mosque, the Spice Bazaar is the perfect place to experience all of the flavors that Istanbul has to offer. While the locals use it for weekly shopping, the Spice Bazaar is just as populated by tourists looking to bring home the tastes of the city.

25. Try Turkish Apple Tea
Apple Tea 
While you are in Istanbul you will definitely be offered some tea. While shopping, vendors will offer you tea while you peruse their goods. This is basic Turkish hospitality and does not mean that you are required to buy their goods. If you have the time, you should definitely accept the tea, which will be served to you in a tulip shaped glass. If given the choice between Turkish Tea and Apple Tea, definitely go for the Apple. This is by-far the best tea I have ever tasted in my life. While you are in the Spice Market, pick up some bagged or loose leaf Apple tea to bring home with you.
  26. Eat Turkish Baklava

A point of contention between the Turks and the Greeks is who created their similar cuisines first. While both cultures revere baklava, it is worth trying Turkish baklava while in Istanbul. While Greek baklava is traditionally made in triangles or squares, Turkish baklava comes in circles of wrapped phyllo dough with pistachios in the middle. The Turks also leave the honey to Greek baklava, and use a sugar-based paste. Turkish baklava is perfect with a cup of Turkish tea, or to eat while strolling the streets of Istanbul.

27. Try the Turkish Pide

The pide is the Turkish take on the calzone, which can often be grabbed for a quick lunch! The flat bread is cooked in a stone oven and is filled with the stuffings of your choice - cheese, meat, and vegtables. The pide is a filling meal and is a great choice for a late lunch/ early dinner.

28. Find the Column of Constantine
Column of Contantine

Pay homage to the founder of Constantinople, Constantine the Great, by visiting his porphyry column located right next to the Atik Ali Mosque. The column was dedicated in 330 C.E. in honor of the capital of the Roman Empire moving from Rome to the city founded by Constantine. In antiquity, the column would have held a statue of  Constantine, who was depicted in the image of Apollo. Today, the column is a World Heritage Site and is one of the best monuments of early Byzantium.

29. Buy a Turkish Lamp or Carpet
Turkish Lamps
Turkey is known for its lamps and its carpets, and these traditional items are great mementos for your trip to Istanbul. Both of these items can be bought in multiple sizes and designs, so look around for the one that catches your eye. While these can be bought at the Grand Bazaar, I suggest looking at shops outside of the covered market, who might be willing to give you a better price for a better quality item. Make sure you barter with the vendors, and consider the currency exchange when purchasing one of these items. I, myself, am a proud new owner of a Turkish Lamp.

30. Listen to the call of prayers between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque
Hagia Sophia during the Call of Prayer
The call of prayer (ezan) can be heard six times a day in Istanbul - early in the morning, throughout the day, and late at night. One of the most beautiful call of prayers is between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, where one muezzin sings out one part of the ezan from one minaret, and another responds from a second minaret. Non-Muslim visitors should not enter the mosques during the times of prayer, so this is the perfect time to grab something to eat and sit down to listen to this beautiful practice.

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