Thursday, February 23, 2017

Crash Course to Athens



As of today I have been in Athens for a month, and I have enjoyed every minute of it! Athens has provided me with a safe home in which I can grow as a person. Athens, and much of Greece, is a bastion of Western culture, yet many aspects of everyday Athenian life are unique.  Looking back on my first month in Athens I have compiled a list of cultural quirks and tips for navigating this timeless city.

1. DON'T EAT THE "ORANGES"

Strolling down the streets of Athens, one cannot help noticing the mulberry and orange trees. On a warm Athenian day (which is most days) one might get the urge to quench their thirst with one of these accessible oranges. Don't. This masquerading oranges are actually vεραντζάκι, a bitter-cousin of the orange we all know and love. These trees aren't without purpose though, they are hardy trees that can survive the "cold" Athenian winters, and they serve as a natural way to perfume the city, especially when the summer heat begins to creep in. The Athenian people don't let the bitter fruit go to waste. Instead the fruit is harvested and uses to create sweets and to flavor alcohol. So please don't eat from these trees, instead stop in the local bakery and pick up some of the candy made from the vεραντζάκι, it is much more pleasing to the palette. 

2. MIND THE PLUMBING



Due to the fact that America is a relatively newly developed country, most of the plumbing and sewers are able to accommodate larger volumes of waste. Athenian plumbing, however, is hundreds of years old and because many Athenian buildings are made out of concrete, as a method of fire prevention, many pipes cannot handle large volumes of waste. As a result, Athenians do not flush toilet paper down the toilet. This was one of the most difficult aspects of Greek culture to become accustomed to and most other members of my study abroad program agree. Athenians, and most Greeks, dispose of their used toilet paper in the bathroom (which is apparently called a water closet) garbage can. This also means that you have to take out the garbage often. The first couple of weeks in Greece I would accidentally forget to throw the toilet paper out and flush instead (and occasionally at three in the morning, when I am half asleep, this still happens), one time isn't going to break the plumbing, but unless you want to cause a plumbing backup through the entire building, it is best to abide by this practice.  

3. PEDESTRIANS DO NOT HAVE THE RIGHT-OF-WAY

Coming from a state in which pedestrians always have the right-of-way, not even Boston traffic could prepare me for the danger that is Athenian traffic. First, I have yet to see a speed limit sign off of the highway. Second, Athenian drivers do not stop for pedestrians. On most roads where there is a designated pedestrian crossing, the oncoming traffic is given a yellow yield light during the duration of the green walk signal. In America this would signal to drivers that they could proceed as long as there are no pedestrians present, this however is not the case in Athens. While crossing during a green walk signal, I have been honked at, swerved around, and almost run over multiple times. The most baffling sight for me was traffic coming to a complete standstill, during a green light, for a stray dog to cross the street not minutes after I had been honked at for crossing the street during the allotted time. I think that tells you something about the Athenians. Crossing the street in Athens means taking your life into your own hands, but there is so much to see in this remarkable city, so just make sure you look both ways... and walk quickly.

4. STRAY ANIMALS



Athenians love their animals. Athens is abound with stray animal - primarily dogs and cats. In fact, it is almost impossible to walk more than a block without seeing a cat walking around or a dog laying in the sun. These strays are friendly, especially if you have food, and are more than willingly to be the recipient of your affection. Though they are approachable, please respect the animals. If you do want to say "hi" make sure you approach slowly with your hand outstretched for them to smell before you attempt to pet them. Some of the animals are skittish and if the animal retreats or growls, leave them be. My favorite stray animals are the ones who live in the ancient sanctuaries and monuments, as if they are serving as the sanctuary's guard, perhaps even as a reincarnation of a soul who visited the sight two thousand years prior. The Athenians also have a wonderful custom of bringing their pets to work. Don't be surprised if you walk past a shop and a small dog or cat is sitting in the doorway, or if their are dogs laying beside their owners at sanctuary entrances. There is no need to be alarmed, Athenian pets are extremely well behaved and are often walked without leashes (think about how well behaved they need to be with how dangerous traffic is). 

5. LEARN YOUR COFFEE ORDER 

Quoting one of my professors, "the only thing Greeks love more than backgammon and cigarettes are their coffee." One of the few industries that has thrived since the financial crisis is the cafe, and most streets have at least three cafes available for you to choose from. If you come to Athens, or anywhere in Greece, one of the first things you should do is learn your coffee order in Greek. Greek coffee shops are a center of Greek culture and one of the better places to meet the local people. Don't worry about perfect pronunciation, the Greeks understand that their language is difficult, especially for Romance/Germanic language-speaking people, and even attempting a few words will thrill them. Learn how to say hello, please, thank you, and sorry. The quickest way to a Greek's heart is through their language or their coffee. So when you stop and visit the cafe, order in Greek and don't forget to order a τυρóπιτα

6. VALIDATE YOUR TICKETS

The Athenian metro/bus/tram system runs on the integrity of the passengers. Tickets can be purchased in the metro stations or at kiosks  and once validated are good for ninety minutes. Due to the fact that metros stations do not have turnstiles or automatic barriers it would not be difficult to board the metro without validating (or buying) a ticket. Do not do this. Often their will be metro authorities who will check ticket validity (especially on the weekends) at the exits of the metro. The penalty for not validating your ticket - you have to pay 60x the original price of the ticket in fines. A generic metro/bus/tram ticket is 1.40 euros and a ticket to the airport is 10 euros. Those are significant fees for not validating your ticket. Thankfully, the Athenian public transportation system is getting a makeover in 2017 by converting to plastic cards (think Boston's Charliecard or the London metro card) as well as automated gates.

7. STOP AND LOOK AT THE GRAFFITI


It may be shocking for Americans to see the large amounts of graffiti that covers the surfaces of Athenian buildings - from apartment buildings to shop fronts. Most Athenian's however are not offended by the presence of graffiti, and instead see it as a productive means for dissatisfied citizens to express their opinions. Graffiti is often used by young people to express their dissatisfaction with the government or certain policies and to express their opinions on world events. Yes, some graffiti marks "gang" territory and others are works of art, but most are insightful and cultured discussions of current events. Once you learn some Greek you will see comments on the refugee crisis, the rise of the neo-Nazi party in Europe, and the economic crisis. The anarchist party in Athens is particularly prolific in their use of graffiti and their work will often be tagged by the anarchist "A." Visitors to Athens may even be surprised to the large number of graffiti that is written in English, which might be used by younger people to establish credibility and mark worldliness through their knowledge of a foreign language. There is a hard limit to the graffiti however. Greeks are adamantly against defacing ancient monuments, temples, and sanctuaries, and even older sections of Athens, such as Plaka, have significantly less graffiti present than more modern neighborhoods. When you are walking around Athens take a moment to stop and look at the graffiti. If you don't know what it says, feel free to take a picture and ask the barista at your cafe to help you with the translation, they will be excited that you are taking an interest in the social and political climate of Greece.

8. Σιγά, Σιγά


Americans walk fast. In fact, one of the biggest tells that you are a foreigner is how fast you walk. The unofficial Greek motto is Σιγά, Σιγά - slowly, slowly - which is often difficult for a foreigner to get used to. Athenians will stroll from place to place, picking up a coffee along the way, stopping and talking to friends, and enjoying the Athenian sun. If you are in Athens, put aside your desire to rush from place to place, and do as the Athenians do. Take the time to enjoy your surroundings, look up and look down. Athens has so much for you to see that you will inevitably miss if you are rushing back and forth. The Greek motto is extended to their afternoon siestas, which become a necessity during the hot summer months. In Greece, siesta is law, and you will find that many business will shut down from two to five in order to observe this. Take this time to enjoy this Greek tradition and head back to your room for a quick power nap, but remember to be quiet in apartments and hotels as not to disturb others who may be resting. Due to siesta, many business hours will not be familiar to Americans, many small, independent stores and pharmacies follow schedules similar to the one posted above. On Mondays and Wednesdays they will close for the day at two in the afternoon and on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, they will reopen following siesta. This resting period also means that dinner is often observed later in the evening, so do not be surprised to see Greeks enjoying dinner around 10 p.m. and visiting bars beginning at 1 a.m.. Greeks may proceed slowly through their day, but they still get everything done.

9. HAND GESTURES 

In America, when crossing the road, I will often times raise my hand in order to thank the driver for letting me pass. This is an insult in Greece, and may get you run over (this might be an exaggeration, I have yet to find out). To the Greeks, an open hand with the palms facing out, is the sign of the "evil eye" (think Italy) and is seen as a curse (think middle finger). Show your respect to Greek culture by not directing your open palm at someone, especially a stranger. If you want to say "hi" to a Greek, you may use an open palm, but make sure you wave it side to side. In order to get someones attention, or answer a question in class, signal with only your pointer finger raised. Trying to signify the number five? Turn your open palm towards yourself. Dismay or excitement is express through rotating your hand near your temple (again, your palm faces towards you), the speed of the rotation signals the emotion - fast for excitement, slow for dismay. Don't want to accidentally be cursed? Pick up a little blue-eye glass charm in Plaka to ward off any potential evil.

10. DON'T BE INSULTED

The Greeks are very honest, open, and curious people. As a result you may find a stranger coming up to you and asking you where you are from and why you are in Greece. Trying not to feel uncomfortable, they are simply curious and want to share their culture with you. Many taboo questions in the United States are acceptable in Greece, including asking your age, your salary, your relationship status, and who you voted for in the last election. These questions are innocuous in Greece and often result from the desire to get to know you better as a person. Greek people are also known to stare, this isn't aggressive, again, it is just a manifestation of their curiosity, especially if you are speaking English! Also if you are trying to show off your Greek language skills, don't be surprised if Athenians begin to speak in English with you after your first attempt. Most are really excited that you attempted to speak their language and now want to practice (and show off) their English with you! As a student of ancient Greek culture, the history of Athens is definitely a draw, but to be honest, you should really come to Greece to meet the people. I have never met a more caring and welcoming people in my life. I have had a stranger who helped me through the Greek Post Office system give me his name and number in case I ever had an emergency and needed help while in Athens. I have also had a vendor at the local farmer's market give to me two lemons without having me pay because I attempted to ask for them in Greek. Despite the economic struggles that the Athenians face, they will always take the time to share their city and their culture with you.

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