Wednesday, May 6, 2020

On the Steps of the Propylaea: Ancient Greek Architecture

On the Steps of the Propylaea: Ancient Greek Architecture

On the Steps of the Propylaea, looking down at the city of Athens.

One of the classes I took this semester, was Ancient Greek Architecture taught by Professor Tasos Tanoulas who has been the architect in charge of the Propylaea Restoration Project since 1984. I have always been interested in architecture and as a Classical Studies major, I am particularly interested in ancient Greek religion, mythology, and how that plays into the everyday life of ancient Greeks. I was excited to visit all the different sites, learn about how they were constructed, and what this reflected about ancient psyche, thought, and tastes.

Our class exploring the Acropolis of Athens

            Our first 5 classes were spent in the classroom learning about the different parts of ancient temples, the different architectural orders, and the terms for all these parts. It was HARD. Who knew that there were names for the TINIEST details? Did you know that different marble blocks in the same wall had different names??? Or even that the steps leading up to the temple had names?? Or all the possible layouts that an architect could have chosen?? It is dizzying to say the least. I spent those classes copying the amazingly intricate drawings of Professor Tanoulas on the board and labeling all the different parts.

Some of my notes from class

            After those 5 classes, all of our classes would take place on various site! We started with the Acropolis of Athens. I was so excited to see all the different details and structures up close. But who knew it would be even harder?? In the classroom, Professor Tanoulas had drawn everything perfectly. On-site, however, we were looking at monuments that had faced thousands of years of wear and tear. The richly decorated column capitals were mere faint lines in the marble. And the beautiful metopes depicting mythological scenes? Elgin happened.


Our class taking a close look at the walls of the Propylaea
Standing at one of the doors of the Propylaea

            However, the site was still breathtaking. No matter how many times I had been (twice a week for two months), I was always in awe of these structures and their complexity. It took my breath away over and over again. Oh, what I would do to see the Acropolis at its peak.

Professor Tanoulas showing us current excavations















            
            And did I mention that Professor Tanoulas was the leading architect in charge of the Propylaea Restoration Project? Well, I’m saying it again. Not only did he know the site and its monuments like the back of his hand, but he had access to all the roped-off sections!! It was clear what a big deal he was in the archaeology world when everyone working at the Acropolis knew him and told us we had the best guide. With him, we were allowed to step off the path and stand on the Propylaea itself!! We walked right up to the Temple of Athena Nike and sat on its steps. We descended a hidden staircase leading underneath the Propylaea and Temple of Athena Nike to an older Archaic temple hidden under ground-level. We walked around the Propylaea to the Northwest Building to peek behind the scaffolding where excavation and restoration were taking place.
Professor Tanoulas lecturing on the steps of the Temple of Athena Nike

I’m beyond sad that we weren’t able to visit the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, and all the other monuments when our semester was cut short but still amazed by the experience. We are still learning about the other monuments digitally and I look forward to the day when I can go back and see them in person again!
A picture of the Parthenon, partially covered by the Cyclopean Wall. At the bottom of the photo is the covered ~secret~ entrance to the Archaic temple!

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