What Rules?

When my Origins of Classical Greek Civilization Professor asked me this morning how my first week in Athens went I had several responses at the ready. I was prepared to recount my first (of hopefully many) adventure at the Acropolis, Acropolis Museum, and Odeon of Herodes Atticus. I could have discussed my initial climb through Kolonaki up to St. George's at the top of Lykavittos Hill, Athens' highest point. There were also plenty of thoughts on my new classes and professors- the great things they were already teaching me. I was eager, too, to tell of my experience with the kind dry cleaner who speaks no English, but patted me on the back with a smile, using hand motions to explain that I could just buy him coffee in exchange for the five euros I owed him, but didn't have exact change for. Yet instead the first thing out of my mouth was "I'm really struck by Athens' straddling of East and West". Of course every European nation has its own unique aspects, but I find Athens remarkably different from the other European nations I've travelled to. The city can't seem to decide whether it is an Eastern or Western nation and, with an added ironic twist, sometimes it appears that it is neither, it's just Athens. Perhaps I'll tell you a little bit more about Athens' Eastern-Western tension more another time, but for now I'm really amazed by the situations in which the city and its people follow their own agenda.

The first time I encountered this distinct characteristic of Athens it literally hit me...well, almost. According to CYA Professors jaywalking is an Athenian art. I happen to love jaywalking and was thrilled that I already possessed a skill that would help me become an Athenian even quicker. Well, it turns out that jaywalking is not just a casual hobby, but the national sport! In other words, I need some practice before I can truly become an Athenian jaywalker. On my way to class one day I saw cars begin to stop at the corner of my street, erasthinous. I was thrilled that I did not have to walk to the corner before crossing so I threw my head to the left and right, just in case a car seemed to be inching forward. I jumped into the street and, but a second later, heard screeching. Upon whipping my head to the left I realized that I had just almost been hit by a motorcycle!* I hadn't seen the driver previously because he had been in another lane, a real lane. Athenian motorcyclists and moped drivers create their own lanes if the legitimate ones are unsatisfactory. I have borne witness to mopeds speeding down roads and then popping onto people filled sidewalks as well as what I like to call 'Off to the Races'. At a red light all of the motorcyclists maneuver in whatever way necessary to get to the front of the line of traffic. Then, as soon as the light becomes green, revved engines and screeching tires are heard for miles as all of the motorcycles speed faster and faster down the street as if racing. Actually, red lights don't even seem to matter too much as I've seen many automobilists drive right through them. Surprisingly, I have not seen any accidents. I admire the freedom that the Athenians exhibit in their driving. There are rules, but the city's residents choose to see them more as guidelines.

Similarly, Athens seems to regard EU regulations as suggestions rather than requirements. Walking the slippery, and rather unique, marble streets of Athens my friends and I realized that there is a ridged strip of sidewalk on almost every street. We theorized that the strip was there to help us grip onto the sidewalk, but we were proved wrong when, on a tour of our neighborhood, we asked Professor John Karavas what the 'grip strip' really was. Professor Karavas explained that the Athenians do not always like following the directions of others. He told us that ridged sidewalk strip was a European Union instituted measure to aid blind people in finding their way around the city streets. Not three feet later, though, Professor Karavas showed us what he meant that the Athenians do not always listen. A line of restaurants all had tables outside covering the strips of ridged sidewalk. A blind citizen would walk smack into a table. Yet I have never seen any regulatory officials out on the streets reprimanding restaurant owners. Interestingly, Professor Karavas had a few thoughts on how this Greek attitude has lead to some of the country's recent problems (and I do too and will share them in a future post!). He seemed to resent the Greek's lax attitude, but funny enough he then turned around, continued with a slow swing in his step, asked if it was all right if he smoked, and inquired if anyone wanted to join him, and proceeded to a route off the map CYA had asked him to follow. He seemed to embody the attitude he had just derided and has obviously been living here for a while! Even adopted Athenians create their own paths rather than always doing what they are told.

So why haven't I seen any car accidents? Why didn't the city fall to pieces year ago if no one follows the rules? How is this attitude influencing current Greek events? All great questions, but I'm afraid I'll have to leave them for the future as I must go prepare for a trip to the Ancient Agora with my Archaeology of Athens class at 7 am tomorrow! For now I'll leave you with the image of Eris, Greek Goddess of Chaos, continuing to spread disorder around Athens. I've already seen great things come out of this seeming chaos!

*PS: Don't worry, I'm practicing safe, and rare, jaywalking!